Good morning. It’s the cabaret queen Barbara Cook’s birthday, and she would have been 92. It got me thinking about all the good preshow meals I knocked down at Café Carlyle before seeing her sing or seeing the Pizzarellis play. I wrote about that once, a long time ago, and emerged with a couple of great recipes to consider making on a Sunday in fall.
One’s for the lobster bisque the Carlyle Hotel’s executive chef James Sakatos conjured out of stock, rice and less cream than you’d think: It’s insanely flavorful (and it freezes well). The other’s for his chicken hash, which was so well loved by the singer Bobby Short that the recipe took his name. That’s a fine feed, too, and a reminder of the Before Times, when we could all squeeze together to eat and drink and listen. Make one of those recipes today and eat it with a martini. Your soundtrack? Mr. Short, of course.
That’s your Sunday taken care of, then, at least if those recipes struck a chord. If they don’t, here’s Lidey Heuck’s latest: a barbecue pulled chicken that my friend Simon Andrews made into a sandwich (above) of remarkable intensity. Or, failing that, roasted butternut squash bread salad. You could always make pressure cooker garlicky beans with broccoli rabe.
On Monday, I like the idea of vegetable pajeon, a scallion pancake filled with grated carrots, bell peppers and zucchini, or with whatever you’ve got in the crisper, really.
Tuesday night, how about sheet-pan roasted fish with sweet peppers? I’ll make that with tautog, where I stay, but hake, cod or flounder work just beautifully.
Pull out of the midweek slump with roasted cauliflower with pancetta, olives and crisp Parmesan and cruise into Thursday with a cook’s choice: either pasta with fried lemons and chile flakes or a simple spread of fish tacos.
Then, to round out the week, a warming bowl of picadillo. (“I know I’m going to sound like a freak,” one reader posted in a note below the recipe, “but I executed the recipe exactly as directed. It was amazing.”)
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Now, it’s a far cry from rillettes and cooking sous vide, but Rachel Monroe’s article in The New Yorker about the detectives who investigate military phonies — those who lie about their service for personal gain — is an utterly fascinating read.
Do read as well Patrick Blanchfield in The New Republic, on Matthew Hongoltz-Hetling’s book, “A Libertarian Walks Into a Bear: The Utopian Plot to Liberate an American Town (and Some Bears).”
It’d be nice to be driving through rain-soaked streets listening to Loski, featuring Popcaan, “Avengers,” drill music turned dancehall with a classic rhyme from Popcaan when he arrives: “Aye, Loski, wha gwan, broski?”
Finally, won’t you take a little time to explore the Gregory Crewdson show at Gagosian Los Angeles, “An Eclipse of Moths”? It’s terrific. I’ll be back on Monday.
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